What is Fashion?

Fashion is something we deal with everyday. Even people who say they don't care what they wear choose clothes every morning that say a lot about them and how they feel that day.

One certain thing in the fashion world is change. We are constantly being bombarded with new fashion ideas from music, videos, books, and television. Movies also have a big impact on what people wear. Ray-Ban sold more sunglasses after the movie Men In Black. Sometimes a trend is worldwide. Back in the 1950s, teenagers everywhere dressed like Elvis Presley.

Who dictates fashion?

Musicians and other cultural icons have always influenced what we're wearing, but so have political figures and royalty. Newspapers and magazines report on what Hillary Clinton wears. The recent death of Diana, the Princess of Wales, was a severe blow to the high fashion world, where her clothes were daily news.

Even folks in the 1700s pored over fashion magazines to see the latest styles. Women and dressmakers outside the French court relied on sketches to see what was going on. The famous French King Louis XIV said that fashion is a mirror. Louis himself was renowned for his style, which tended towards extravagant laces and velvets.

Clothes separate people into groups.

Fashion is revealing. Clothes reveal what group's people are in. In high school, groups have names: "Goths, skaters, preps, herbs." Styles show who you are, but they also create stereotypes and distance between groups. For instance, a businessman might look at a boy with green hair and multiple piercings as a freak and outsider. But to another person, the boy is a strict conformist. He dresses a certain way to deliver the message of rebellion and separation, but within that group, the look is uniform. Acceptance or rejection of a style is a reaction to the society we live in.

Fashion is a language, which tells a story about the person who wears it. "Clothes create a wordless means of communication that we all understand," according to Katherine Hamnett, a top British fashion designer. Hamnett became popular when several rock bands wore her t-shirts with large messages like "Choose Life".

There are many reasons we wear what we wear.

• Protection from cold, rain and snow: mountain climbers wear high-tech outerwear to avoid frostbite and over-exposure.
• Physical attraction: many styles are worn to inspire "chemistry."
• Emotions: we dress "up" when we're happy and "down" when we're upset.
• Religious expression: Orthodox Jewish men wear long black suits and Islamic women cover every part of their body except their eyes.
• Identification and tradition: judges wear robes, people in the military wear uniforms, brides wear long white dresses.

Fashion is big business. More people are involved in the buying, selling and production of clothing than any other business in the world. Everyday, millions of workers design, sew, glue, dye, and transport clothing to stores. Ads on buses, billboards and magazines give us ideas about what to wear, consciously, or subconsciously.

Clothing can be used as a political weapon. In nineteenth century England, laws prohibited people from wearing clothes produced in France. During twentieth century communist revolutions, uniforms were used to abolish class and race distinctions.

Fashion is an endless popularity contest.

High fashion is the style of a small group of men and women with a certain taste and authority in the fashion world. People of wealth and position, buyers for major department stores, editors and writers for fashion magazines are all part of Haute Couture ("High Fashion" in French). Some of these expensive and often artistic fashions may triumph and become the fashion for the larger majority. Most stay on the runway.

Popular fashions are close to impossible to trace. No one can tell how the short skirts and boots worn by teenagers in England in 1960 made it to the runways of Paris, or how blue jeans became so popular in the U.S., or how hip-hop made it from the streets of the Bronx to the Haute Couture fashion shows of London and Milan.

It's easy to see what's popular by watching sit-coms on television: the bare midriffs and athletic clothes of 90210, the baggy pants of The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air. But the direction of fashion relies on "plugged-in" individuals to react to events, and trends in music, art and books.

"In the perspective of costume history, it is plain that the dress of any given period is exactly suited to the actual climate of the time." according to James Laver, a noted English costume historian. How did bell-bottom jeans fade into the designer jeans and boots look of the 1980s into the baggy look of the 1990s? Nobody really knows.

Once identified, fashions begin to change.

Interview with international fashion editor Cynthia Durcanin (Elle Magazine)

What is fashion?

Fashion is a state of mind. A spirit, an extension of one's self. Fashion talks, it can be an understated whisper, a high-energy scream or an all knowing wink and a smile. Most of all fashion is about being comfortable with you, translating self-esteem into a personal style.

Why is it important?

Fashion is a means of self-expression that allows people to try on many roles in life. Whether you prefer hip-hop or Channel-chic, fashion accommodates the chameleon in all of us. It's a way of celebrating the diversity and variety of the world in which we live. Fashion is about change, which is necessary to keep life interesting. It's also a mirror of sorts on society. It's a way of measuring a mood that can be useful in many aspects, culturally, socially even psychologically. At the same time, fashion shouldn't be taken too seriously or you lose the fun of it.

How do you know what will be hot in the future?

The collections in Paris, New York and Milan, and now London, typically set the stage for the industry one year in advance. Though, I think the street is the real barometer of style. More and more designers are drawing their inspiration from life on the street. So once again, there is a link to personal style and fashion. A teenager can throw something together without thinking about it and it can trigger a new trend.

How do you choose what to wear in the morning?

It depends on my day, mood and what's clean. If I have an important meeting or presentation, I put more thought into what I will wear. But on my most days, I dress to my mood, which can range from funky to retro to classical. Then again, there are days when my laundry basket dictates what I ultimately wear.

Latest Trends

Pop Goes The Closet

Meanwhile, female pop stars continue to pursue their dreams of making the whole world into their own private Barbie closet. Two singers that heed the calling of helping other women look more like them are Gwen Stefani and Kylie Minogue. Gwen has called her label LAMB, because all the accessories will feature the words Love, Angel, Music and Baby in gothic lettering. That's nice, except that's exactly what Parisian graffiti artist and trendsetter did a couple of years ago. Meanwhile, Kylie's lingerie line, Love Kylie, appears to be a fun, cheeky (haha) take on the Mini-Minogue's own campy sex-pot image. The stuff includes lacy bras, baby doll camisoles and ribbon-tied thongs, which names such as Vamp, Seduce, Sheer Escape, Dolly, Diva and Fever.

Boys Town

Hot on the heels of all the Teen-Vogues, Elle-Girls, and Cosmo-Girls out there are a slew of new boys' mags. This only makes sense, since teenagers are the only consumers who are completely resilient to recession. Studies have shown that the average American teen would rather torture his/her parents to death than give up his/her cell phone plan and monthly facials. (Not really. But studies have shown that teen spending is the only sector still going strong.) Hence, GQ is currently looking for snappy, young editor for their spin-off Fahrenheit, targeting ages 18-24, while Nylon is launching a men's edition in March, which seems perfectly tailored for a high maintenance, shaggy, neo-punk urbanite with a trust fund.

Designers

Chloé

Chloé: Past, Present and Future

Sassy, sexy and ultra cool, Chloé is a paradox of both feminity and romance infused with a street-cred edge.

She's fun, she's flirtatious, and she's at the forefront of the scene.

You've seen her around; she's a girl about town.

Do you know who Chloé is?

Luxurious, romantic and quintessentially French, Chloé's ethos is to make luxury prêt a porter for stylish women the world over.

Having bought the house in the mid 80s, Swiss luxury group, Richmond, placed Chloé firmly on the international market where it has remained a formidable fashion force since.

Producing iconic fashion and launching Chloé's eponymous and successful fragrance, Karl Lagerfeld became Chloé's public image in both the 60s and 90s and was succeeded by Martine Sitbon's unique modern vision during the late 80s.

Miss McCartney joined as Creative Director in 1997, infusing her classic tailoring with the pulse of the street and securing Chloé as the first name in fashion.

Miss McCartney's design partner, Phoebe Philo, stepped into her head designer shoes in April 2001. Bringing her sass and street edge to the label, Miss Philo continues to produce coveted ranges, including new additions such as swimwear and casual line or younger line, See by Chloé.

Phoebe Philo: A Face Of Fashion

As Creative Director of Chloé, Phoebe Philo becomes next in a line of visionaries to head-up the prestigious French House. Having worked with Miss McCartney for four years, Miss Philo played an essential role in the house's reinvention; bringing to it a youthful, cool sexiness and rock and roll edge. Miss Philo's understanding of street culture combined with her tremendous respect for Chloé's heritage has brought a new sassy edge to the luxury label and with it a new casual range. A less expensive range than the main line, the essential sexiness and street cred for which Chloé has become famous.

Chloe is a woman who knows what to do, even in bad conditions. She is recreating fashion. The thing, which makes Chloe different from the other designers, is her different view. She is like a legend for swim wears industry; all the models are working for her. Her causal designs could be seen on every woman, from teacher to politician, and waitress to actress. When you see a design of her, you could easily understand the difference.

Versace

Founded in 1978, Versace is one of the world's leading international fashion houses. The Italian parent company of the Versace Group, Gianni Versace S.p.A., designs, markets and distributes luxury clothing, accessories, fragrances, makeup and home furnishings under the various brands of the Versace Group. These brands include: Versace, Versus, Versace Jeans Couture, Versace Classic V2, Versace Sport, Versace Intensive, Versace Young and Palazzo Versace.

Versace's Style Department employs an exceptional group of designers and stylists who work in teams specifically dedicated to each individual line. All of these teams operate under the close supervision and guidance of Creative Director, Donatella Versace.

To ensure the highest quality, carefully selected manufacturers craft all Versace products. Versace collections are distributed through a network of 240 exclusive boutiques, over 150 dedicated spaces in major department stores and duty-free areas, as well as a number of selective multi-brand boutiques in 60 countries.

The Versace Group directly employs 1,500 people and provides indirect labour for an additional 5,000 worldwide.

With a solid international presence, the Versace Group boasted sales in excess of 822 billion lira and net earnings of 18 billion liras in the 1999 fiscal year.

Donatella Versace

Donatella Versace, Gianni's younger sister, was born in Reggio Calabria, Italy, in 1959. While earning her degree in Languages at the University of Florence, she assisted Gianni by supervising photographic campaigns that were instrumental in defining Versace's signature advertising style.

From the start of his career, Gianni consulted his sister in his most important decisions, and Donatella's bravura and dedication made her integral to Versace as the company grew. She began designing accessories, and in 1993 proceeded to create the children's line, Versace Young. Donatella was subsequently named Head Designer for versus - a cutting-edge brand aimed at fashion pioneers.

Just as Gianni's passion for theatre, opera and ballet was embodied in his designs, Donatella has embraced and extended Versace's tie to the arts through her love of contemporary music. As the brand has evolved, Sting, Madonna, Bon Jovi and Courtney Love have all represented Versace in notable advertising campaigns. Donatella has guided the brand into the new millennium, meshing heritage and innovation to keep Versace distinctly subversive yet indisputably elegant.

Today, Donatella is Vice-Chairman of the Versace Group as well as the Style & Image Director. She leads the company's creative choices, trends and communication.

Gianni Versace

Gianni Versace was born in Reggio Calabria, Italy, on December 2, 1946. After an apprenticeship at his mother's dressmaking business, he began working as a freelance designer. At age 25, Versace was creating prêt-à-porter collections for top fashion houses of the time, including Genny, Complice and Callaghan.

In 1978, with the help of his brother, Santo, he founded the Gianni Versace Company. Later that year, the first Gianni Versace collection for women was shown in Milan.

Gianni's bold creative genius consistently challenged the boundaries of the fashion industry. His distinctive cuts, vibrant prints and unconventional materials brilliantly united high art and contemporary culture, and he quickly earned international praise. In 1982 Gianni won the Cutty Sark and Golden Eye (L'Occhio d'Oro) awards for his 1982-1983 Fall/Winter women's collection - in which he presented his famous metal chain-mail dress. Versace also received the Golden Eye in 1984, '90, and '91. Also in 1982, Versace began work for Teatro Della Scala, designing costumes for Veronesi's production of "Josephlegende". Gianni's engagement with the theater sparked a passion that would span his career. He was an ardent patron of the performing and visual arts and an esteemed member of the international artistic community. Versace's spectacular costumes were featured in stage events worldwide, among them Donizetti's "Don Pasquale" (1984) Bob Wilson's "Salome" (1987) and "Doktor Faust" (1989), and several Béjart ballets, including "Dionysos" (1984), "Leda and the Swan" (1987), "Malraux ou la Métamorphose des Dieux" (1986) and "Chaka Zulu" (1989). In 1985 Versace was awarded the "Maschera d'Argento" (Silver Mask) award for his contribution to the theatre.

In 1988 the jury of the Cutty Sark Award named Versace "the most innovative and creative designer in the world." In 1993, the Council of Fashion Designers of America awarded the American Fashion Oscar to Versace, and the Italian and French presidents honored him.

1994 marked the opening of the Versace flagship boutique in the prestigious Kurfürstendamm, Berlin. In September, the "Versace Signatures" exhibition opened at the Kunstgewerbemuseum.

Also in 1994, Versace published "Designs" the English version of his book, "Vanitas - Ricami e Decori - Decori e Ricami." Collaborating with publisher Leonardo Arte, photographers Richard Avedon, Bruce Weber and others, Versace produced three more highly acclaimed volumes:

"Men Without Ties" (1994), "Do Not Disturb" (1995) and "Rock and Royalty" (1996).

In 1995 the first Versus fashion show was held in New York. That year, Versace sponsored the Haute Couture exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, as well as Richard Avedon's "1944-1994," both of which met with great success.
Gianni Versace died on July 15, 1997 in Miami, Florida.

Givenchy

1927, the year the Musketeers triumphed at the Davis Cup, the year Charles Lindbergh flew non-stop across the Atlantic Ocean and the year Hubert de Givenchy was born at No 24, rue Saint-Louis in Beauvais (France).

Very early on, Givenchy manifests a passion for fashion. At age 10, he visits the World's Fair in Paris and returns filled with wonder from the Pavilion of Elegance, where 30 models of the most famous French couture houses were presented. His mind is set: he will be a fashion designer.

When France is liberated from German occupation, Hubert de Givenchy moves to Paris and begins to study with Jacques Fath. He continues his training under the guidance of Robert Piguet, and then becomes Lucien Lelong's assistant after Christian Dior's departure in 1947. That same year, Elsa Schiaparelli entrusts Givenchy with the management of her boutique on Place Vendôme, where he will spend four years.

On February 2nd 1952, Hubert de Givenchy's dream comes true: he opens his own Maison de Couture at No 8, rue Alfred de Vigny, on the Monceau Plain.His first collection is an immediate success. Bettina Graziani, both model and press agent of the company, becomes the brand's icon. He created for her the famous "Bettina blouse."

1953 is a turning point. Indeed, the young designer meets Audrey Hepburn, the incarnation of his ideal of femininity. Here begins a 40-year long friendship, during which the actress will become the brand's ambassador. Films starring Hepburn such as Breakfast At Tiffany's, Funny Face or Sabrina convey Givenchy's image of refined elegance around the world.

That same year, Hubert de Givenchy befriends Cristobal Balenciaga and considers him as his Master. Balenciaga's influence is present in the spirit of innumerable Givenchy collections, and is particularly evident in the designer's taste for structured minimalist clothing.

A pioneer in many fields, Givenchy is the first designer to present a luxury collection of women's ready-to-wear (1954). His work combines elegance and classicism with audacity and modernity. "Separates" (1952), the bag-dress (1955), the funneled collar coat (1958), the enveloped dresses (1966), and the garments of printed textiles inspired by Miro, Matisse or Christian Bérard (the Eighties) are among his most original designs.

Throughout the years the Givenchy brand diversified its activities. 1973 is a milestone year, as Givenchy enters the realm of menswear, with the launch of the "Gentleman Givenchy" line.

The brand also expands its distribution network internationally to many countries, in particular to the Far East and to the United States.

Givenchy became part of French luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton alongside other prestige labels including Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Christian Lacroix and Céline.

After Monsieur de Givenchy's retirement in 1995, John Galliano, graduate of London's St Martin's School of Art and thrice elected "Designer of the Year" by the British Fashion Council, became the new designer for Givenchy's Haute-couture and luxury ready-to-wear lines. In October 1996 Alexander McQueen, also graduate of London's St Martin's School of Art, is appointed to succeed him.

In March 2001, Julien Macdonald was named Artistic Director for Women. In this role, Macdonald oversees the design for Haute-Couture, women's ready-to-wear and accessories.

Julien Macdonald, 28, comes to GIVENCHY after founding his own company in 1997. Prior to that, he was the head knitwear designer at Chanel Couture. While he first wanted to be an actor, he discovered his passion for fabrics and enrolled at the Brighton University and then completed a Master of Arts at the Royal college of Art

Following the success of its macramé bag in the summer 2002 season, the house of Givenchy has done it again with the launch of the "Pumpkin" bag for the winter 2002 season.

The purse bag, which was designed for next season by Julian Macdonald, Artistic Director for ladies wear and accessories, was named "Object of desire" and accessory of the season by the press when it was previewed in March 2002.

The "Pumpkin" will be available in soft leather in a variety of colours and will make its first public appearance at a preview in Galleries Lafayette stores from the beginning of August. It will be available in Givenchy boutiques from the beginning of September.

Try it and you won't be able to resist!

When she was passing through Paris in the middle of June, Kylie Minogue visited our boutique and became the first famous person to carry this bag.

The Givenchy Club

The Givenchy Club is a new project, which was launched by the Maison Givenchy on 11th April this year.

The Club, a group of privileged members, allows us to meet up with our clients and improve our relationship with them as well as to give new members an insight into the masculine universe of Givenchy.

Members of the Club are invited to private meetings where they can discover what happens behind the scenes and explore the workings of luxury brands by meeting designers and specialists at each event.

Our members have already had the chance to meet Rémi Krug, CEO of Krug Champagne, and take part in champagne tasting with him. They have also had a preview of the new fragrance "Givenchy pour Homme" at a lecture by Pablo Reinoso, who designed the bottle and Françoise Donche, the specialist who created the fragrance.

These gatherings took place in the relaxed atmosphere of our boutique in Paris, where our members were able to see our new collections and take advantage of an exclusive offer of made-to-measure suits and jackets for the same price as the ready-to-wear range.

With meetings four to six times a year, we shall soon be revealing details of the next events to take place as well as the privileges that will benefit our members throughout the year.

Givenchy's designers

1927, the year the Musketeers triumphed at the Davis Cup, the year Charles Lindbergh flew nonstop across the Atlantic Ocean and the year Hubert de Givenchy was born at No 24, rue Saint-Louis in Beauvais (France).

Very early on, Givenchy manifests a passion for fashion. At age 10, he visits the World's Fair in Paris and returns filled with wonder from the Pavilion of Elegance, where 30 models of the most famous French couture houses were presented. His mind is set: he will be a fashion designer.

When France is liberated from German occupation, Hubert de Givenchy moves to Paris and begins to study with Jacques Fath. He continues his training under the guidance of Robert Piguet, and then becomes Lucien Lelong's assistant after Christian Dior's departure in 1947. That same year, Elsa Schiaparelli entrusts Givenchy with the management of her boutique on Place Vendôme, where he will spend four years.

On February 2nd 1952, Hubert de Givenchy's dream comes true: he opens his own Maison de Couture at No 8, rue Alfred de Vigny, on the Monceau Plain.

His first collection is an immediate success. Bettina Graziani, both model and press agent of the company, becomes the brand's icon. He created for her the famous "Bettina blouse."

1953 is a turning point. Indeed, the young designer meets Audrey Hepburn, the incarnation of his ideal of femininity. Here begins a 40-year long friendship, during which the actress will become the brand's ambassador. Films starring Hepburn such as Breakfast At Tiffany's, Funny Face or Sabrina convey Givenchy's image of refined elegance around the world.

That same year, Hubert de Givenchy befriends Cristobal Balenciaga and considers him as his Master. Balenciaga's influence is present in the spirit of innumerable Givenchy collections, and is particularly evident in the designer's taste for structured minimalist clothing.

A pioneer in many fields, Givenchy is the first designer to present a luxury collection of women's ready-to-wear (1954). His work combines elegance and classicism with audacity and modernity. "Separates" (1952), the bag-dress (1955), the funneled collar coat (1958), the enveloped dresses (1966), and the garments of printed textiles inspired by Miro, Matisse or Christian Bérard (the Eighties) are among his most original designs.

Throughout the years the Givenchy brand diversified its activities. 1973 is a milestone year, as Givenchy enters the realm of menswear, with the launch of the "Gentleman Givenchy" line.

The brand also expands its distribution network internationaly to many countries, in particular to the Far East and to the United States.

Givenchy became part of French luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton alongside other prestige labels including Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Christian Lacroix and Céline.

After Monsieur de Givenchy's retirement in 1995, John Galliano, graduate of London's St Martin's School of Art and thrice elected "Designer of the Year" by the British Fashion Council, became the new designer for Givenchy's Haute-couture and luxury ready-to-wear lines. In October 1996 Alexander McQueen, also graduate of London's St Martin's School of Art, is appointed to succeed him.

In March 2001, Julien Macdonald was named Artistic Director for Women. In this role, Macdonald oversees the design for Haute-Couture, women's ready-to-wear and accessories.

Julien Macdonald, 28, comes to GIVENCHY after founding his own company in 1997. Prior to that, he was the head knitwear designer at Chanel Couture. While he first wanted to be an actor, he discovered his passion for fabrics and enrolled at the Brighton University and then completed a Master of Arts at the Royal college of Art.

Shining Stars

Anna Sui

International designer Anna Sui's involvement in fashion began at an early age, with a devotion to dressing her toy dolls and brother's soldiers for her own personal version of the Academy Awards. Sui eventually extended her fashion interest to include designing her own clothes and clipping fashion magazine pages to serve as inspirations. After graduating from high school in Detroit, Michigan in the 1970's, Sui moved to New York City to attend Parsons School of Design. In 1980, Sui presented six original pieces at a boutique show and immediately received an order from Macy's, which featured one of her designs in a New York Times advertisement. That same year, Anna Sui launched her own business that operated out of her apartment through the 1980's.

In 1991, Anna Sui premiered her first runway show, featuring her signature "head-to-toe" look and prompting the New York Times to proclaim it as a "pastiche of hip and haute styles". In 1992, Sui opened her own boutique in SoHo that reflects Sui's distinct decorating passions, pairing flea market furniture and whimsical mannequins with purple and red walls. Anna Sui Shoes premiered on her runway for fall 1997, and in 1999 Sui launched her signature fragrance and cosmetics line.

Called a designer that "never panders", Anna Sui continues to design and manufacture her signature Anna Sui Collection in her New York City headquarters. Her runway shows continue to set trends and inspire designers everywhere. Sui's signature wit and original designs draw legions of devotees to her pieces, including clients Patricia Arquette, Christina Ricci, James Iha of Smashing Pumpkins and Dave Navarro of Jane's Addition.
Jill Stuart

Jill Stuart was born into the world of fashion, design and New York's Seventh Avenue, as her family owned "Mister Pants", a prominent ladies apparel firm in the 1960's. While attending Manhattan's Dalton School, Jill expressed her creative interest through jewellery and handbags and sold her first collection of silver, leather chokers, and suede-fringed hobos to Bloomingdale's when she was fifteen. She later attended the prestigious Rhode Island School of Design.

The JILL STUART label established itself with accessories and innovations such as the fashion backpack. Post-grunge, 1993's debut of her apparel collection, enhanced by numerous Jill Stuart outfits featured in the film "Clueless" catapulted the company into the most successful and enduring of a generation. The continuation of the designer's flair for bohemian chic sportswear has become the dominant trend in fashion today. Taking her theme global, the designer has over 45 international stores with the flagship located in New York's Soho.

The Jill Stuart philosophy in design and her lifelong love of fashion have proven to be a formula that defines the new millennium. "I appreciate one's own style, more than noticing them wearing a designer outfit. The euphoria for me is to create design I, my friends and contemporaries find irresistible while enhancing one's individuality."

Frédéric Fekkai

With the unfailing eye of an artist and his inherent sense of beauty and style, Frédéric Fekkai has become one of the world's most celebrated names in beauty and hairstyling, working with many of the world's most beautiful and prominent women, like Claudia Schiffer, Julia Ormand, Kim Basinger, Robin Wright Penn, Kristen Johnston, Renee Zellweger, Gretchen Mol, Kirsten Dunst, Alicia Silverstone and Holly Hunter. Acclaimed for his individualistic, common sense approach, Frédéric has made an indelible mark on the beauty and fashion communities with his innovative styling, exclusive salons and range of extraordinary products. His philosophy incorporates an appreciation for simple and natural beauty.

Born in Aix-en-Provence, France, Frédéric had once considered becoming a sculptor. Instead, he turned his artistic eye and skilled hands toward revolutionizing the cut and shaping of hair. At age 21, he moved to Paris to work with the Jacques Dessange Organization, and finally, to New York, where he helped to launch the Bruno Dessange Salon on Madison Avenue. He quickly established a reputation for impeccable style and taste with his clean, modern haircuts.
"I always focus on the complete picture - the most appropriate haircut, hair colour, skincare, cosmetics, eyewear, and accessories for each individual", says Frédéric. "Each element should be synergistic to create a unique portrait of great style. That's total beauty."

In 1989, Frédéric was approached by Bergdorf Goodman to create a sophisticated salon to complement the store's legendary fashion leadership. From there, he emerged as a force within the industry and was able to fully develop and showcase his own innovative approach to cutting, a method which required clients to stand during a cut in order to ensure a hairstyle was totally proportional to the individual's overall appearance. His appreciation for the individual style and beauty of each client won him praise from critics and clients alike and his growing A-list clientele of top actresses, models and business executives further helped Frédéric to seal his place among the ranks of celebrity stylists.

In 1996, Frédéric, in a joint venture with Chanel, opened his landmark Beauté de Provence salon. The five-floor salon and spa located on New York's prestigious 57th Street offers client total beauty treatments, including comprehensive hair care and skincare, massage, body treatments and makeup. Renowned for providing the highest quality service in the most luxurious manner, the salon is also home to Frédéric's full line of innovative products including hair care and skincare, colour cosmetics, Provence-inspired fragrances for body and home as well as a collection of handbags, hair accessories, scarves and eyewear - each infused with Frédéric's impeccable sense of style.

The salon served as a model for an additional Beauté de Provence location, a Beverly Hills atelier that he opened in 1997 to accommodate his West Coast clientele. More recently, Frédéric established a number of Frédéric Fekkai boutiques to showcase his extensive line of elegant and stylish products - one at 874 Madison Avenue in New York, another at the Short Hills Mall in New Jersey and several within select Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus stores across the country.

In 2000, Frédéric published his first book, Frédéric Fekkai: A Year of Style, a unique guide that works like a daybook, offering 12 chapters packed with advice for living life more beautifully - plus a style note for each day of the year.

When not working in his New York or Los Angeles salons, Frédéric devotes his time to product development, staff training, and personal appearances around the country.

Q: Do you change your styling approach or philosophy, depending upon whether you are on the East or West Coasts? If so, how?

Frédéric Fekkai: They are both trend setting cities that are plugged in to the latest looks and styles. Therefore my approach is not that different. But they're a few examples that I can highlight where my approach in LA is different. For example, the women on the west coast tend to have longer hair that is less maintenance. I attribute this to the weather, which is warmer, and the lifestyle in LA, which is more laid back than NYC. We also see a lot more blondes in the LA salon than in NYC.

Q: What new projects does the company have in the works?

FF: We have two very exciting product launches in the works.

1. We are launching a protein line designed to strengthening, fortify and renew hair that has been damaged or over processed. This initial introduction with includes: Shampoo, conditioner and a mask.
2. We are launching our first ever line for men that will be called, "Fake For Men."

Q: For someone who may not have the fortune of meeting you in person, what is the best general hairstyling advice that you can give?

FF: I always advise my clients to select a style that compliments her personality and lifestyle. Be confident with you are and learn to play up your best features. This is more important. I always try to get to know my clients before I am start cutting. This helps me get a feel for what she is all about and what type of look will be most natural, flattering and beautiful.

Q: What are 3 essential hair products one should always have in there grooming arsenal?

FF:

• A hair texture appropriate shampoo & conditioner
• Finishing creams that will help smooth and hydrate your hair. This is essential for completing a look. My new Glossing Cream With Olive Oil soothes frizz and restores shine and manageability. It absorbs quickly without a heavy feel and leaves hair lustrous through out the day.
• A Hair Mask-This is vital for all hair types. I like to use mine that has pure shear butter. Use weekly to give hair a needed moisture boost and to restore luster.

Q: What is the most common hair care or style mistake that you see?

FF: Women with over processed dry, damaged hair that has no shape.

Q: Can you share any new hairstyle and/or makeup trends for spring 2002?

FF:

• Bangs either swept to the side or flat to the forehead. I love this look. Hair falling over one eye or on to the face creates a sexy, sultry effect.
• Big Come Back of Curls and waves. This spring hair is full and bouncy but there is no wait at the crown. Its hair that has light layers, textured curls, and thick, loose waves, or straight hair that oomph. It's all about romantic whimsical curls.

Q: In your opinion, what type of fashion - design style, colour, neckline, etc. - is most flattering to the face and showing off hair?

FF: I always focus on the complete picture -the most appropriate haircut, hair colour, skincare, cosmetics, eyewear, and accessories for each individual. Each element should be synergistic, to create a unique portrait of great style. That's total beauty.

Q: Who are some of your favourite fashion designers?

FF: Diane Von Furstenburg, Tom Ford for YSL, Marc Jacobs.

Conclusion

My term homework's subject was to compare female and male attitudes through fashion. I observed that female designers generally use more colours in their designs. They have a traditional style. Their summer designs are generally white or yellow that makes you feel fresh and makes you relax. Black and grey is the colours of winter that helps you to join the chaos of your own life. Butterflies and flowers are the best icons to use in a suit or a leather jacket. Swimsuits are two-piece and again they are making you feel fresh and you could feel that you are in a seaside without actually being there, by wearing the swimsuit. Accessories are small and you could easily bring it everywhere you go. At night, in an expensive restraunt or in a café at the afternoon, you could use these small bags. Jewelleries are also for everyone's use.

Four or five years ago, the well know designers accessories was too expensive, something between 3000$-15000$ but now you could buy a channel bag only for 400$. This change in the fashion industry affected all the people. Now there is a big race between industries. When channel organizes a big fashion show, Dior can't resist planning one; this is how it goes on. Of course you can't go out without jewellery. Even with a simple earring or with a necklace, you could feel more feminine and that will make you more confident. I think the biggest difference between man and woman is, woman wants to look good but it's not easy. The hair, the out fit, the make up, everything should be perfect. I know that everyone can't look like Cameron Diaz or Nicole Kidman, but with a little help from a designer, you could look better by feeling like a celebrity.

Even celebrities are not perfect; their time passes by putting make up and working hard to look thinner. They are going saloon to saloon for a simple change of a single strand of their hair. Mans are generally getting ready earlier than a woman and they get angry when their wife's are still not ready. They always complain about it and they never understand why it takes too long to get ready. They only wear a trouser and something on it; of course it will take less time. Styling the hair without a professional help, would take 10 minutes, of course if you are not doing something special, like straightening your hair if you have curly hair. Then make up will take 15 minutes, just for putting some foundation on the face and eye lining the eyes, maybe you could have some colouring on your lips too. At last you could wear something in 15 minutes. It could sound too much time, but actually it isn't. Making the colour coordination's and choosing the best out-fit which reflects your mood that day, can't take less then 15 minutes. Choosing the accessories and jewelleries will make 10 minutes totally. As a result, at least woman needs 50 minutes. I think man should learn to wait, of course if he wants a pretty woman walking near him.

Time is not the only thing that makes difference between man and woman. Woman and man are wearing too different things. Woman has a bigger dresser. Skirts, jackets, trousers, dress, so much to put in that dresser. We shouldn't forget that fashion was just for woman when it first came into the lives of people. Designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Yves Saint Laurent works more on woman out-fits. They are organising a show four times a year. In these shows, models are just working to become more and more famous. Everyone knows the names of female models, but honestly I don't know a name of a male model. Naomi Campell, Heidi Klum, Tyra Banks and Kate Moss are known worldwide. They are earning billions just on a show, so I can't think the total amount of money they earn in their lives. They are pretty, sexy and successful, so who can reject them. The world is going in the way that models go. In a humorous way, I could explain it like that: "The average woman would rather have beauty than brains because she's smart enough to know that the average man can see better than he can think" People prefer to see models rather that other things. It's the show business, the amount of people like the show, the amount of money you earn.

Mostly designers are man and they are creating for women. So models are generally female. We could say that, males are planning and organising everything in fashion but they are doing it for females. So it's hard to say males are the owners of fashion industry. This industry belongs to the ones who are powerful in that time, it could be a show that is great or a bag that looks great would honour the designer, but a model that makes her job so perfectly could bring her to the top of the industry. Sometimes we could think that models, and designers, they are both the owners and sometimes they are both not. Sometimes singers or actors could be the owners. Madonna or Elvis Presley is the trendsetter that no one can deny. They created their own styles and now they are thousands of people go in their way. The celebrities of our time are trying to be like Madonna and try to look like Marilyn Monroe. The teens were all affected by the dress which Halle Berry wears on last years Oscar Ceremony. It was not only the teens that were effected, everyone was affected. So fashion industry belongs to the ones who do his/her work great, but then it will belong to someone else.

"Change" is the only thing that does not change in fashion. Now there are younger designers like Anna Sui or jill Stuart. Anna Sui is so famous that everyone admires her. Jill Stuart is also so successful. A. Sui prefers colours in her designs where as Stuart prefers black, grey and green. They both reflect their thoughts. Anna S. could be seen as the new Chloe. Chloe is a successful woman and Anna S. is going on her way. J. Stuart can be seen as he is going in the way of Marc Jacobs. Everyone knows how successful Marc Jacobs is. Versace, Givenchy and Dior are ruling the fashion industry for years, now it's the time to give that chance to the others. Yves Saint Laurent announced that he is retired on a show, which he brings Catherine Deneveu and Latitia Casta as models. It was a show, which explains the changes in fashion from 70's to now. At the end of the show all woman were wearing black suits. I think it means, woman are man, whatever you are, you could wear everything you want. Forget about the differences between two sexes for a moment and think what would make you feel great when you wear. You could change the traditions and make your own style. The fashion changes so quickly but people cant change that fast, so we must have our own style. Being like someone else, would make us forget our selves. So without believing everything, first we must decide what "Fashion" means for us. Being like a copy of a star, or being a star, with your fashion?

Resources

• http://instyle.com
• http://givechy.com
• http://www.chloe.com
• http://fredericfekkai.com
• http://www.versace.com
• ELLE, June, July, October, November 2002